This is a documentary
about John Bukaty
John's confession: “I've never been out of North America so that's a big thing to get out of this whole realm and into another. Just to see things that are a thousand years old, as an artist, is going to blow me away.”
Overview
On September 1st, 2009 we will set out an amazing three and month journey through India. Colorado artist John Bukaty is the subject and inspiration for this very unique documentary. During our odyssey, we will bring our cameras and record how John reacts to India, and conversely, how India reacts to John. Along the way, John will paint what he sees. This will not be an idle vacation, as Johns mission on this trip is to complete 100 Paintings.
On this journey we will seek out different music and festivals in India. We will look for the traditional, the modern, the unusual, and of course, the unconventional. We will meet new people, and eat new foods. We will learn about new religions and see how others pray. We will travel from Leh in the North, to Kerela in the south, and from the deserts of Rajasthan in the west to the dynamic and chaotic marriage of poverty and culture in Calcutta in the east. We will learn about the melting pot called India and hopefully learn something about ourselves along the way.
John Bukaty - Artist
Known as Bukaty, John has a very interesting background. As a former division 1 football player, bartender and long distance telephone salesman, John would be the last person you would suspect to be an artist. The fact that he is doing this trip to India is even more fanciful, considering the fact that he has never been outside of North America.
Why would John want to paint 100 paintings in India? Why would he want to leave the comfort and beauty of his current home in Crested Butte Colorado to face the unknown of the Indian Subcontinent? It is much more than frivolous wanderlust. In the last two years John has gone through a personal
metamorphous. In the last two years Johns best friend Jason dies, and same year John's father Fred Bukaty lost a courageous battle to cancer. These tragic events reshaped John's existential purpose. Instead of wallowing in sorrow, or losing himself in drugs or alcohol, he decided to go the other way. He looked within and found what Van Morrison refers to as the Mystic. John is now a spiritual seeker.
These deaths, combined with John embracing of a sober life style, have made him want to see the world. He wants to experience new art, music, and cultures. His new spirituality has made him want to meet new people, and different kinds of people. He wants to grow as an artist, and share his art with anyone he encounters.
John has painted hundreds of events including The New Orleans Jazz Fest, Wakarusa Music Festival, Kansas City Blues and Jazz Festival, The Kansas City Rhythm and Ribs Festival, Nederland and the Aspen Jazz Fest.
His portraits include artists such as: Widespread Panic, J.J. Cale, Michael Franti, Ben Harper, Grace Potter, Derek Trucks, Robert Randolph, Ziggy Marley, Warren Haynes, North Mississippi Allstars,Outformation, MOFRO, Blues Traveler, and many more. Bukaty's oringinals and prints are collected by individuals and corporations throughout the world and his event experience includes companies such as Comcast, Sysco Foods, Mediflex, along with a variety of charitable causes.
http://www.johnbukaty.com
Click
Meet John..
Filming In India
More photos in our BLOG
Executive Producer Patrick Dugan
Director/Producer
J.R. Fleming
Producer
Mark Koetting
Associate Producer Liana Taylor
Director of Photography Krystle Klein
Asst. Director/Sound Kevin Hartigan
Cinematographer/Sound
Md Sabi Huzzaman
See all paintings at shows across America..
Chicago
August 27, 2009
A week from today we will arrive in Delhi India and begin shooting the India footage for our documentary 100 Paintings Ago. It is very exciting to see a plan that has been in the works for six months, finally come to fruition. There has been so much drama and excitement in the pre-production phase of this, that we could base an entirely separate film on.
There is a dual purpose to this blog and web site. We want to use this as a tool to keep in touch with friends and family while we are exploring India, Nepal, and Thailand. And secondly, we will use this as an introduction to new friends that we meet during our travels, as well as new virtual friends that may come across this site, and hopefully be interested in coming back every week to check our latest adventures.
I last visited India and Nepal two years ago, and I can not be more excited to be going back with friends (the crew Kevin and Krystle) and John (the artist, and sometimes diva). My experience with India has gone back two years, but my friendship with John Bukaty goes back 20 years. For this project I consider myself more of a chemist than a director. I am interested to see what happens to John and his art when I combine him with three months of India. And how will India react to a 6’4” Polish/Irish mutt that expresses music and dance in colored paints on canvass?
I encourage everyone to check out the entire site. There is a video that was produced by John a few years back. It is a good video and shows John in action, in case you don’t know John or know what he does. You can also check out johnbukaty.com to see the video as well as some of John’s art. We will be posting John’s art in a gallery at www.100paintingsago.com. We will post them all 1-100. I will send out updates when there have been additions to the site, and please pass the word on about 100 Paintings Ago, and encourage them to sign up for the updates.
New Delhi
September 3, 2009
"Don't tell me this town ain't got no heart, just got to poke around"
Haribol!
Today is the festival of Ganesh, the elepnt headed Hindi God, which truly wouldn't be half as surprising if John turned a corner and stepped on Ganesh' foot, compared to the downtown streets of Delhi. Did anyone mention "Monkeys on Acid"?
We met MD today, the fifth member of the team, and he just what the doctor orderred (it was there, so I took it). We are incredibly greatful to have his direction and help navigating through Delhi. We would still be sitting in the lobby of the Wongden House in the heart of the Tibetan Refugee community where we are staying wondering how we might find some supplies.
MD led us to the "paint store" which we quickly discovered is a far cry from what John has grown accustomed. Thankfully enough, we are guided through some back alleys to a steel door and BINGO, everything we could possibly need packed neatly and orderly upon tons of other stuff. John is ready to begin NUMBER ONE of 100 PAINTINGS AGO! Good stuff!
Then we hopped in a rickshaw or three and began winding down the backstreets of Delphi, very slowly but surely. There are quite a few of near misses of people, rickshaws, cars... wait, that is a monkey hanging on a coagulation of wires that would give any electrician an anxiety attack. Then we turned a corner and it was like Mardi Gras. Drums, dancing, people carrying large statues of elephant headed Ganesh draped in flowers and surrounded by shotgun pops of fireworks and confetti. I do think the locals got more amoused out of 6'4" American standing with a beautiful blonde... wait a minute, who is watching who?
We are heading north to Shimpla tomorrow night by train. I think we all are ready to head for the hills and breathe some oxygen, not this constant smell we just can't quite put our finger on.. garbage, sweeet garbage?!
In Love, Light and Peace
Kevin Hartigan
Asst Director/Sound
Shimla
September 6, 2009
Nothing bonds a group of travelers like the constant need to talk about feces. It's just something that has to be done in order to survive...and make light of an otherwise unpleasant situation. Although when you have to do it over a hole it's unpleasant no matter how many jokes you can make about it afterward. But it's all part of this incredible experience and we were prepared. (And I'm getting really good at the squat. I might just get rid of my toilet when I get home haha). My body seems to adapt to India (so far) better than the boys, as they've all become ill already and I'm still feeling pretty good. That's not to say it hasn't been a bit more...frequent...than normal, but two of the guys are at the hospital getting a drip, and I haven't had to get that far yet. They should be in good shape by this afternoon to shoot, which is about when my salwar kameez will be ready.
OK so enough about our bowels...we are now in Shimla, which is like the Grand Haven to Kalamazoo; the Up North to the Detroit area, the Lake Geneva of Chicago. It's in the foothills of the Himalayas, although I'd hardly consider 9,000 feet a "hill." But I guess compared to where we're going tomorrow (north to Manali then to Leh and possibly Kashmir) this is the bunny hill. Many people come here to escape the heat and madness of Delhi. The people are friendly and peaceful, and the views are amazing...nothing but endless hills flirting with ruffled clouds for miles. I've never felt this far from everything before, and it's kind of refreshing.
To get here was an interesting feat. We took a six hour train ride from Delhi to...somewhere...where we hired a taxi to take us another four hours through the winding and steep hills, where again there is no rhyme or reason for traffic other than the avoidance of getting killed between the giant trucks that bound down the streets. But the colors of India even bleed through on what would be an otherwise ugly brown truck...the entire front of all of them are elaborately painted and decorated with Hindi gods. Even the train was painted a bright blue, which lightened the look of the menacing barred windows.
As we crawled up the road, we saw a food stand on the side of the road, swarming with flies. When JR assured us it was fine, and they threw soupy mixtures in front of us in tin plates, I started to count in my head how many protein bars I had and how I would ration them for the next three months. But my stomach urged me to at least try it, and it was, of course, delicious. So I ate it all, and then "butterfingers" came out with Naan (you see, the butter on the naan was all over his hands, as there's no need for knives around here). The guys are attributing butterfingers to their unfortunate situation, which is probably true. But maan that food was good. :)
We will have footage up on our website soon, along with some pictures of the shoots. The people of India seem to enjoy John's paintings, and are very curious about the camera equipment. We shot at sunset last night as John painted with our friend Mannat as kids swarmed them and jumped in front of the camera. I love playing back the footage for them and watch as they crack up at themselves.
I could write forever, but I should probably finish up and get some more toilet paper. And a monkey stick.
Krystle klein
Director of Photography
Kasol
September 10, 2009
Happy Birthday Ruby Faye Hartigan!!! I love you so, so much and you are in my heart every step of this journey. I feel your warmth and spirit in every childs face I witness, YOU ARE THE BEST! I am so proud of you Ruby Faye
Yesterday we had our first dose of hot water. The water did not come out of the shower but it was one of the most fulfilling and exhilarating splashings I have ever experienced. Feeling refreshed, John knocked out an abstract that is so calming we will make miniatures to carry with us next time in Delhi. Then we got to take a five minute taxi to some incredibly blessed holy waters that just happened to be piping hot. This pool was surrounded by a Buddhist Stupa and a Hindi temple to ShivaMagical. Through the center of town was a river with class V rapids, Sean Hartigan would truly be in heaven.
This town is a mecca for Israeli travelers, students, musicians, a.k.a. hippies. I feel right at home., very kind and gracious vibe from everyone. We have been received with open arms and the Evergreen Restaurant went out of their way to welcome the project. Last night, we were entertained by an Israeli couple, one playing guitar and the other a flute. In addition, some folks added some drums and it was a truly unique experience. Candle lit tables low to the ground with all of us sitting on cushions and John painting the trip, really cool. This town is a special place!
McLeod Ganj
September 19, 2009
The first three weeks of shooting for 100 Paintings Ago are over. To review; we got chewed up and spit out in Delhi, sick in Shimla, rained on in Kasol, stuck in Manali due to land slides, and sleep deprived in McLeod Ganj (the hotel is on a real noisy street, but real cheap!). Along the way we battled gangs of monkeys, mangy wild dogs, random snake charmers, and aggressive wandering faux Rayband Sunglass salesmen (it is best not to show any interest at all in their goods, or they will follow you all day until they close the deal).
Despite all of the challenges, we have been having a great time making art as well as this documentary. I remember how strange it was to see John do a painting at a live show in the USA. Now he is strategically placing his easel to avoid curious cows, and malicious monkeys. He has gone from painting Left Over Salmon (a popular jam band) in Denver to serene saffron draped monks in Northern India.
As a group we are all remaining strong, however, it seems that each member of the crew individually goes through the occasional 24 hour sensory overload. It is usually only one person at a time. It is understandable, because there is so much good and bad to see everywhere you look. One minute you are high from listening to chanting monks at the Dali Lama’s temple, and the next minute on your way home, run into a beggar with no hands looking for food or money. In India you are awaken to the fact that there are so many people out there that are not able to take care of themselves, and it is depressing because there is no easy solution. Life is suffering, and life if beautiful: India suffers and India is beautiful!
I am very excited about the next 7 days. We are doing two shoots in the next 7 days that many people can only dream about. With the end of Ramadan we are in negotiations with Jama Masjid, the largest Mosque on India to paint and shoot during their Eid celebration. Imagine 25,000 Muslims bowing down in prayer, while John simultaneously paints and we film entire thing!
The other big shoot will be at the Golden Temple in Amritsar, very close to the Pakistani Border. The Golden Temple is the holiest of sites for Sikhs. My words do not do this place justice and that is why I am so eager to shoot there. The majesty of the place is slightly overshadowed by the warmth and hospitality of the people there. We will stay in dorms that the temple provide free of charge, and eat in the dinning hall that has no tables or chairs and is the size of a football field. In the dining hall we will join the other 45,000 pilgrims that eat there everyday.
I am very grateful to be here in this dynamic place with like-minded people, and I am very grateful to all of the support from everyone on who has signed up for updates on the web site, as well as the many Facebook fans we have already accumulated!
And now, Krystle's take:
Yesterday we ditched the equipment to take a “rejuvenating” hike up to the top of a mountain. “Just a few hours up then a few hours down,” J.R. said. EIGHT and half hours later, we limped back into town after climbing up 5,000 feet and back. *J.R. wants me to mention here that some people make it in five hours, and if it weren’t for my short legs and John’s “breaks” then he would have made in five hours. **I’d like to mention that the only people capable of this are the Canadian marathon runners on steroids who passed us twice. Also, this is why I usually write my blogs in an Internet café and not on J.R.’s computer.
ANYWAY.
The hike was amazing. As we climbed, we passed small Hindu shrines, and at one point were stuck alongside a donkey train. We had an entirely newfound appreciation for the Fanta in glass bottles at the hut on the peak, as they were brought there all that way on the back of a donkey. When we finally arrived (yes, the donkeys beat us), the view was of course, worth the trek. The sheer rocks of the Himalayas shot to the sky, which served as a menacing backdrop to the grassy pasture that the donkeys and horses were calmly feasting on. We plopped to the grass and ate chow mein from one of the huts, and chatted with Canadians and Israelis that shared the same exhausting but fulfilling experience. After the feeling came back to our legs and the swelling of my hands and arms went down, we somehow trekked all the way back, stopping to talk to fellow hikers on their way up, singing, counting…doing whatever we could to distract ourselves from the pain. Today my legs and abs are extremely sore, but that’s just a subtle reminder of the great feat of the day.
Later, the crew went to the neighboring town of Bhagsu to shoot John as he painted a Middle-Eastern/Irish Folk band (another reason to love India—the blending of cultures and influences to create magic). The concert took place on the top floor of a café, in a large room lined with colorful and well-worn mats on the floor that miraculously held 160 people. One of the walls opened into a balcony that overlooked the starry night, and in one of those mystical perfect evenings, the music played, people danced, John painted, and part of the movie was made. One of the musicians was from Detroit, and like many nomads that we meet in Northern India, spends his time traveling and playing music while identifying more so with the laid back minimalist culture of the hippie Himalayan towns than the fast-paced life of the West. One of his band mates had a more extreme story, as he spends his time bicycling around Asia, and in a few months will trek alone by bike from Northern India back to his home of England, passing through Pakistan, Iran, Uzbekistan, Kazakhstan, Russia, Ukraine, more of Eastern Europe, then north to home.
And if one asks why he wants to do this haul, the inquisitor is met with, “why not?”
Amritsar
October 1, 2009
I am reading a book that is required reading for any introductory cinematic editing course. It is a book by Walter Murch, and is called In The Blink of an eye. I do not mention this as a recommendation (although, if you are interested in editing you may enjoy it). I bring up Murch’s book because of the opening sentence:
“It is frequently at the edges of things that we learn most about the middle: ice and steam can reveal more about the nature of water than water alone ever could.”
We were fortunate to visit the literal edge of India in a fascinating town called Amritsar. Located in the far northwest of India in the State of Punjab, about 30kms away from the Pakistani border. At first glance Amritsar is a hot, and noisy hub of confusion.
Automobiles are not allowed to enter the center of Old Amritsar, where we were staying. So five blocks from out hotel, with very little warning, in the middle of rush hour traffic, in the middle of the street, we had to move all 20 of our bags from the SUV that transported us, into two shady looking rickshaws. It would be like United telling you that they can not land the plane exactly where you paid them to get you, but would provide you with parachutes to ensure a soft landing, and the jumping begins in one minute!
The main reason for most people come to Amritsar is to see The Golden Temple, the holiest of religious sites for Sikhs. Any explanation of The Golden Temple does a true disservice to the majesty and calm of the place. The area surrounding the temple is the size of two football fields. In this area is a square, man-made pond. And in the middle of this huge pond is The Golden Temple.
At first glance, the Sikhs are stunningly statuesque. They seem taller than other Indians, however that all may be an illusion from the required turbans and long beards that every Sikh must sport. They have very stern looks on their faces and consider themselves the warriors of God, and they look the part! You become paralyzed with fear when they direct their stern look in your direction. They seem to be staring at you for an hour, but in reality it is only a few seconds. The fear and anxiety that you feel quickly dissipates when they approach you with a smile, and a request to take a photo with you.
Sikhs feel that travelers are sent from God in order to test their kindness and generosity. They back that credo up by offering all comers, regardless of race, religion, caste, or nationality, a bed sleep to sleep in and food to eat, all free of charge.
During the course of the day, you may end up walking around the Golden Temple 20 different times. As the light of day changes, so does the look of the shimmering gold on the Temple. What does not change is the mellow and relaxing music that is played 24 hours a day. The music consists of a simple drum, an accordion type of instrument, and the vocals, sung in Punjabi. What also does not change is the kindness and sincere interest the Sikhs have in you.
So there is a lot to be learned on the outside edges of the Golden temple. As you walk around the pond surrounding the temple in the middle, you learn that kindness, peace, and world harmony are the cornerstones of Sikhism. You learn not to judge others by their appearances. But the most fascinating thing that we learn is that the Golden Temple, on the edge of a Hindu country, and next to the edge of a Muslim country can maintain a place of peace and calm, where caste, religion, and nationality are irrelevant, and the gold in the Golden Temple does not represent material wealth, but in fact is a shining light of refuge from intolerance.
Rajasthan
October 10, 2009
On any given day or on any given walk, the random acts and occurrences that can happen are pretty astounding here in India. Truly incredible stuff folks. I have carried the highlights and lowlights around between my ears for long enough, so here we go…
In Jaipor, we saw one of the most fantastic and incredibly wreckless firework displays I have ever experienced. During the festival, there were two thirty foot high “monsters” covered in christmas lights, confetti, and countless fireworks. Surrounding these monsters were Fourth of July caliber fireworks lined up on the ground making a sort of barricade to block us, the unsuspecting spectators. A gentleman would then run around and light the bombs at arms length. I call them bombs because only half worked like normal fireworks. The ones that worked went off about 100 ft. above our heads (still very close) The ones that did not work backfired directly above people’s heads. But, in India, the people love this stuff. Everyone is cheering, children are laughing and holding their near bleeding ears, all waiting for the next one to be lit. JR’s shirt caught on fire the backfire was so close, but you know what, we all cheered too! That’s the thing around here, we are not always too sure why we’re celebrating, but it sure feels good as long as no one loses a limb and as long as we make it to the toilet on time.
Then onto Jodhpur in the state of Rajasthan that really felt like the India I had always imagined. Lots of heat, lots of sand, palaces, temples, forts, camels, etc. and oh yeah, lots of heat. Bukaty kicked it into overdrive here and really got a head of the curve and caught back up in paintings. There was a music festival here that had everything from traditional Rajasthany music to a folk band from Chicago of all places. The most memorable for me was sunrise at a temple overlooking the entire city with the majesty of a 400 year old fort in the background. John painted this Father and Son duo playing traditional music from the mountains in the East near Tibet. Words do not even come close to describing the beauty of the experience.
That same evening I slept at the temple and got to wake up and again see music. This time, it was twin brothers who played the sitar and another string instrument accompanied by another spectacular sunrise. Truly magical and gives me goose bumps just thinking about it.
Next, we quickly realized why camels have humps…so you don’t ride them! The idea of riding a camel through the desert is really a romantical thought for some. Yes, the camel is a lovable creature in all of it’s hideous and enormous glory, but the novelty soon runs out when you feel like your bottom is going to completely fall out.
Parts of Octopussy were filmed in Udaipor so go ahead and add it to your Netflix Queue. In Udaipor we were able to wake up every morning and practice some Yoga looking out over mountains, temples, and a beautiful lake. It was even more serene that our Yoga instructor did not say a word. He only pointed, smiled, nodded his head, and tsssssed. We knew to change positions whenever we heard a noise coming from up front or when I came crashing down after trying a head stand. I mean if Bukaty can do it, I should be able to do it as well, right!?
And speaking of our Yoga instructor, one day I was wandering around, minding my own business when old boy called me over to his buddies moped. He gave me a huge smile and shifted his head for me to look into the moped’s glove box. So, when his buddy opened up the moped’s glove box, out came a 7 foot snake. Yes, out of a moped’s little dash box the dude stuffed a red snake inside. Apparently, this guy is famous in Udaipor for helping out everyone who has a snake problem, for free. He cruises around on his moped and captures the snakes that wonder into people’s homes. He then rides them up into the mountains and lets them go. This guy was so happy about his job and he didn’t even get paid.
Now we are a bit past half-way. At the half way point (Day 46), John was exactly half-way through the paintings at number 50. Hell yeah! The repeating themes on this trip have been Gratitude and Patience. Everywhere I turn in India I am reminded of how Grateful I need to be and how truly Blessed I am. This has been a life-changing experience and I am so grateful for the experience. But, I am also reminded of the humility that I need to practice on a daily basis when I see a person missing limbs truly smiling. They say hello to me and all they really want is for me to stop, look at them, give a bow, and smile and say hello back. Nothing more, just respect. Yes, the traveling around here can be crazy and incredibly sketchy, but we have made it safely and soundly every time. Yes, it is polluted in spots and things don’t always work properly. Everything is different over here. But, the biggest difference I see is that people actually take their time here. They take their time to build temples with unbelievable detail. They take their time to greet each other and enjoy a cup of chai with each other and with perfect strangers. They take time to ask you your good name and where are you from. Regretfully, they also take their time to take your order at a restaurant and even more time to get you your food, but the service industry and entrepreneurs in general will be my next computer session thoughts.
To all of the Redmond clan, please know that you all are in our thoughts and prayers. Every church, every temple, I carry all of you in my heart.
In love, peace, and light,
Mumbai
October 21 2009
COMING SOON!
Take a look at the new Kerala (Goa) entry...
Kerala
October 27, 2009
Verkala is definitely one of my favorite spots so far. It's a tiny beach town in the state of Kerala. Bamboo huts, cafes and shops line the edge of a cliff that is nestled right up to the beach of the Indian Ocean. The weather is breezy and tropical, the people are laid back and friendly, the seafood is fresh and simmered in spices that melt in your mouth, dragonflies carry you through the sandy pathways along the cliff, and we don't want to leave.
I should back track a bit. Goa was a fantastic decompression for all of us. We stayed in a hotel that had a pool--a POOL! (I couldn't go in it though because I have an open wound which I'll write about in a minute). Goa is a great vacation spot for families, which means that at 6am they are up, yelling, coughing, puking, and getting ready for the day. Normally this would be annoying, particularly after a night I spent dancing on the bar at a beach cafe, but instead it motivated me to get up and go running on the beach every morning, as this delicious food is making my belly a little softer. We rented scooters for most of our time there, which was a blast. We cruised through narrow palm tree-lined streets with bright purple and orange houses peeking through. We blasted by beach huts and locals who always like to say hello. One day we took the scooters to the south where we found a secluded beach covered with stonehenge-like rocks and fishermen preparing for their daily ocean catch. The ride down there was incredible, and at times we were the only ones on the road as we cruised by rice paddies, dense palm tree jungles and serene grasses of nothingness. It grew dark while we were there, and we had to make the 50 km trek back through winding roads, getting passed by monsters in the form of trucks, staying steady and hoping to make it alive. We did, of course.
Our time in Mumbai before Goa went by so quickly it's hard to reflect. It's a cleaner, bustling city with Bollywood stars dancing on signs throughout the streets. We played rickshaw tag whenever we went anywhere. I'll check my journal for more of this part.
The time is slipping away so quickly, and this stretch of the journey has been so fun that it's hard to keep up with all that is going on. We will be in Verkala for the next five days, and a few of them will be spent on a houseboat that cruises through the backwaters of Kerala, something in the 1,000 places to see before you die book. Lots of pictures to come.
Hyderabad
November 1, 2009
We were given a great opportunity to hang out at a fantastic orphanage in Chillakallu, a small town 4 hours outside of Hyderabad. Before we got there, we were very apprehensive about the entire set up, and were expecting to have our hearts ripped out with tales of abandonment and neglect. What we found could not have been farther from that assumption.
The town of Chllakallu is a typical rural town in India. It is poor, but functional by Indian standards. Hinduism dominates just as much as it does in most places in India. Despite our trepidation about the orphanage, we were also intrigued about the fact that this orphanage is a Christian orphanage. It is so common for us to see Christian churches and crosses in the USA, but it was a little odd for us to see such things in a country of Hindus, Sikhs, and Muslims (to name a few).
We met the children in the morning. The bunkhouses that the children live in is very austere but very clean and orderly. Our first impression of the children was that they all looked really healthy. They greeted us with songs that they had learned at the orphanage, and as a group they were all very gregarious and smiling. Their smiles and ease quickly evolved into concern, when the head master suggested that each of they introduce themselves individually. They all did fantastic jobs with the introductions. The older the child, the better the English was.
After the intros, we went out and played, and really got to know the kids on their level. They loved to play cricket, but we were useless with that. What we found that we had in common was Frisbee, and we busted out our disc that had made the rounds with us in India. It is amazing how a simple thing like Frisbee can really break the ice.
There are a lot of things that are systematically wrong with India. It was very refreshing to find some thing that works so well as this orphanage. Most of these children will never be adopted, and will never have conventional home that most of us know. It seems tragic to all of us that do come from conventional homes, but to the kids, they remain happy and adapt. There is a lot to learn from that.
November 22, 2009
Life has this tendency to follow complete circles, ending up where we started but with new eyes, much like our trip through India so far. The wedding was a perfect example. But I need to back track for a minute.
A few months ago we were in Amristar, where we stayed at an ancient Haweli turned guesthouse owned by a couch surfer--an interesting and progressive Sikh man named Nirindigit, who loved hosting people from all over the world. There we stayed, in this medieval castle, mingling with Spaniards and Indians, talking, painting, shooting, eating. We became friends with two guys from Delhi-- Sumit and Rajan, who were very interested in our project. Between that and the fact that they are great guys, they invited us to their sister's wedding.
So, as we literally went full circle around the entire country of India, we found ourselves back where we started, in Delhi, with new eyes, and ready for fun. Indian weddings oftentimes take six days of celebration. We were lucky enough to witness the last (and most important) two. Both nights required traditional dress, so we set out into the markets of Delhi to get fitted for the occasion. The guys wore these handsome (or as they say in India, "smart") traditional pajamas with kurtas and long scarves...complete with elf-like shoes. I wore a salwar kameez--a long top with a scarf and pants.
When we arrived at the festivities, we were welcomed with open arms. "These are Sumit's friends," his family introduced us to the rest of the family and friends, all of them greeting us with smiles and Namastes. The DJ played music all night, and at one point we were all pulled to the dance floor where we surrendered to the night, threw our hands up and started jumping and dancing with the group, all the while laughing our asses off. After dancing, we took to the buffet, and were overwhelmed with the variety. There was street food and sweets sandwiching tables filled with Dal and curry, rice and chapati. As the night came to an end, we left full and happy, said goodbye, and had no idea that what we had just experienced would pale in comparison to what we were about to see.
The night of the actual marriage began around 10 pm. A tent that housed a thousand people sprang up four stories high, orange and red, lined with gold. An enormous stage took up the front of the open air courtyard where Punjabi performers danced, and the bride and groom were put on display. At one point, a crane lifted the bride and groom onto the stage as music played, and they were slowly turned completely around so that their guests could see them from all angles. They looked happy but stiff, as they were adorned from head to toe with jewels and flowers, red and white fabrics. The bride had golden chandeliers hanging from her fingers, and jewelry on any place jewelry could fit. She was absolutely gorgeous.
We thought the food was spectacular the night before...but that was just a fraction of the culinary delights that circled the massive tent. Foods from all over India---representing most of the places we had just visited--were waiting for the guests to dig in. There were so many silver platters of food, that my plate was completely full before I had a chance to visit 3/4 of what the chefs had to offer. And the sweets! There were tables filled with pies and cakes, ice cream, and traditional Indian sweets. If we looked like we hadn't eaten enough, people would bring us more plates full and say "eat!"
When we were completely stuffed, John went to the stage to point the couple in a gorgeous painting of the two smiling lovingly at each other. While he was doing that, aunties were pulling me to the plush couches in the middle to meet more of the family, uncles were dragging me to the dance floor to jump around, kids were circling me in hugs and dance, our friends would come up and say, "are you sure you ate enough? eat more! are you having a good time? great!" all the while I somehow kept my lehenge--this elaborate hot pink and gold full skirt and top with a giant scarf of the same material (complete with a hot pink bindi, of course) together.
Toward the end of the night--well for us, anyway..around 2 am, John presented the painting to the happy couple before they were about to take their vows--an intimate ceremony performed in a small room before the family, where the couple walk around a fire seven times and become husband and wife. The family walked us out...and made sure we tried paan first...and we said goodbye as we left painting number 91 with the couple whose brother and cousin we celebrated painting 19 with months before, in a completely different part of India.
Agra
November 29, 2009
In India…
If the bus is full…ride on top.
If the bus doesn’t stop for you…just run and jump on.
If you want to ship something to another country, you must first find a man who will package your items in a box then sew a bag to fit the box which is then wax sealed.
If said package weighs more than 5kg it costs less to ship than if it weighs under 5kg.
Just when your heart goes out to man wearing no shoes in the garbage and cow manure filled streets you pass a woman with no feet.
The car horn is used for 80% of the entire car ride, mostly to announce the passing of a vehicle, to warn a cow or group of people to move out of the way, or maybe purely out of habit.
If someone walks up to you holding a round basket and has a grin on his face, there is a snake inside that basket.
Women work hard labor, such as carrying piles of bricks on their head, while wearing beautifully colored saris.
Abandon any need for personal space on public transportation or busy streets.
For as many warnings received to watch out for thievery, most Indians will let you know if your bag is open or if you left your ATM card in the machine.
If you suddenly feel terribly ill, there will be a kind stranger and wonderful travel companions to help you. If you then get the panicked “I don’t have health insurance” thought, remember that you are in India, and as long as you have 4 US dollars, you can see a doctor at an emergency room and get medication.
You then realize that many people in the country cannot afford that.
When someone invites you for chai, gratefully accept. You will experience wonderful conversation and as the chai warms you it breaks down any language or cultural barrier.
When a stranger asks you to lunch, you may discover something profoundly special.
Don’t be surprised if someone whom you met six hours before invites you to their wedding. And make sure to go.
Hands together in a namaste gesture are more powerful than a handshake.
